Bill's Belgian Beer Trip Part Two

Bill’s Travels in Belgium 28 Feb – 3 Mar, 2008 (part 2 of 2)

1 Mar
The day started with an early start and another great breakfast at Bloom. After, I made my way to the last operating Lambik/Gueuze brewery in Brussels—Cantillon. The actual brewery is state of the art—for about 1880. Old equipment with some of it being steam powered.

Lambik is one of the oldest types of beer still being made- the yeast and bacteria that ferments the beer comes from the air in the brewery in a process that is little changed since the 18th century. The base beer (called lambik) is aged for 3 years in french wine barrels and then is blended (with about 20-30% 1-2 year old lambik) to create Gueuze. The yeast in the beer ferments the residual sugar of the younger lambik to carbonate the Gueuze to make a Champagne like beer. By comparison, when you have Lambik (normally only in Belgium), it is flat and almost wine like (very dry and sour).

About one Saturday a month, between September and April, the Von Roys (Jean- father and owner, Pierre- son, brewer, other family support) open the brewery while they brew and give tours. An older (~70 years) man “Young” (Flemish?) who grew up in a small town next to Brussels gave the tour in English and gave a wonderful description of both the brewery and his life growing up in a culture that consumed Lambik as its daily drink (“Lambik for Monday thru Saturday and Gueuze on Sundays”). One of the more interesting things to watch were the coopers cleaning and maintaining the casks.

After a great morning at Cantillon, I checked-out of the hotel and took a train to Antwerp. After check-in at the hotel (nice but not special, 10 minutes from the train station, 15 minutes from the downtown, all walking), I took another train to Sint Niklaas (about half way to Gent, 25 minutes from Antwerp) for the Zythos Beer Festival. Zythos is the name of the largest beer appreciation group in Belgium—a great group of people in country filled with great beer. About 60 breweries and 200 beers were represented (a small percentage of >200 breweries and several thousand different beers). A large crowd gathered to sample 15cl each an extradordinary collection of beers. The crowd was mostly Belgian plus Americans, Germans, Danes, Duetch, French, Brits, Polish, Bulgarian, and Japanese—I am sure others; this is a small list of people I at least said hello to (and some longer, more coherent conversations). I admit to feeling like a kid in the candy store and was forced to retire sooner (at 9pm vice midnight) due to poor alcohol planning: too much too soon. I was still ok, and returned safely to Antwerp to walk around for about an hour before going to bed.

Beers sampled: Cantillon Lambik, Cantillon Rose d’Gambrinus. At Zythos (all 15cl): Van Eeck Fest Bier, D’Ecaussinnes Ultra X-mas, Brunehaut Terroir Wit, Ichtegems Grand Cru, Saint Helene Grognard, Triple Djean, Oud Beersel Bersalis, Boon Frambozen Lambik, Cuvee De Ranke, Lupiline Primula, Malheur Cuvee Royal, Belgoo Magus, Cuvee Des Trolls, Orval, De Dolle Oerbier, Brugse Zot, Saison Voisin, Saison Dupont, Sint Peters Tars-boulba. (Total: 21, ~3.3 Litres)

2 Mar
Sunday morning, I set out to see Antwerp on foot. I visited many Gothic churches (most on the outside during services). It was amazing to see many of these massive cathedrals placed so close to the surrounding buildings—often the best view was from a block away looking over the surrounding neighborhood. The Stadhuis (city central) was also impressive—all of the building on the square were originally guild halls and have beautiful gold statues and ornaments mounted on the roofs/gables. I ate a waffle with chocolate and strolled the main shopping street (Meir) as the city left church and settled into café life. The square with the Rubenshuis was particularly busy for such a cold and dreary day.

I finished my stroll of Antwerp with a much awaited lunch: Mosselen (mussels). At the square with the St Carolous Cathedral and the old Biblioteck (library), I found ‘t Brantyser. They served wonderful, simple Flemish cuisine. I had Mosslen Provecial: 1.4 Kg (2.8 lbs) of mussles steamed with broth, onions, celery, a touch of tomato sauce, and very little other spicing. The mussels were amazing (very fresh) and the simple broth quickly grew on me. A fresh De Konick ale (Amber ale brewed in Antwerp) was a great match.

After filling my belly, I was ready for an afternoon of beer sampling. Again, I took the train to Sint Niklass. This afternoon, the crowd was less frantic, a little mellower, and overall more talkative. I met an American couple from southern Netherlands (near where I thought I might go before Naples) and watched (and laughed) as couple of Belgian boys (7-9 years) threw paper airplanes at a trio of old Belgian men. The evening ended with almost two hours of animated conservation with a group of happy Americans from Arizona, the same ones I met two days before. Thanks , Mike and friends, I had a blast with all of you.

As the event came to a close, I returned to Antwerp and, after a short stroll, went to bed.

Beers sampled: De Konick Ale, Yperman Amber, Hommelbier, Watou Witbier, Petrus Aged Pale, Petrus Oud Bruin, Boon Duivelsbier, Boon Kriekenlambik, Gouden Carolus Hop Sinjoor, Valeir Blond, Brussels Wit, Millevertus Fado, De Dolle Arabier, De Dolle Extra Special Export Stout, Saison D’Epeautre, Slaaomutske Dry Hopped Lager, Giradin Oude Lambik, Gouyasse Tradition, Biolegre, Leirken Special Spelt, Caulier Bonsecours Myrtille. (Total: 21, ~3 Liters).

3 Mar
My last day in Belgium, I put my backpack on my back, picked up the big bag of chocolates, and walked to the train station, took a train to Brussels and then out to the Airport. I relaxed at the airport for a few minutes and sipped my last Belgian beers.

Beers Samples: Hoegarden Wit, Duvel. (Total: 2 , ~.75 Liters)

Beer Totals: 63 sampled, ~12 liters consumed.